If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you. Log in or Sign up. DIYnot Forums. How to fit kitchen units starting in non-square corner Discussion in ' General DIY ' started by vince29 Jun Hi, I'm just about to start fitting a new L-shaped kitchen but the corner of the room I'm starting in is not square greater than 90 degrees.
I know that if I get the first corner unit wrong it will impact the entire kitchen so I'm seeking confirmation that my plan is correct for this situation. The included image shows the layout where the red lines indicate the walls over-exaggerated As shown I'm planning to scribe the corner units to the wall such that the 2 farthest end units in each direction sit to the walls without any alterations.
Is this the correct solution, and are there any implications? Are there alternative methods? Thanks in advance, Vince. How deep are the units? Are you using a Corner unit?
JohnD29 Jun In the mean time could you tell me what gap size you would consider to be too much? If it turns out that the gap is too large, then what would you recommend instead? Cheers, Vince. Other cabinets except Ikea are made a bit less deep than work surfaces to allow a bit of room.
So I was wondering if the gap you have can be taken up by the slack allowed for. In my kitchen I had to cut the worktop for out-of-square, and put the corner unit in almost last, it was short enough to line the other cabs up so the doors looked OK. The cabs next to the corner cab do not have to line up square as long as the doors match. I've not yet been able to obtain the measurements, but another solution was suggested which I will explain: This solution simply fits the units in line with both walls using the offset filler in the corner unit as a pivot point - see diagram below: This moves the problem to the worktop.
I've cut worktops in the past using a jig, and these ensure the join is degrees. I'm presuming that the jig can be re-positioned and clamped instead of using all the pegs to create an angled join greater than degrees. Can someone who has experience cutting worktops confirm this? On a side note, this must be one of the most fundamental problems to overcome when fitting a kitchen, yet I'm having real difficulty finding any information or guidelines for overcoming this.Even after checking the room carefully, marking all of the cabinet locations on the wall, and snapping a level reference line around the room, surprises can sneak in.
Here are some field-modification solutions to common problems that can arise during cabinet installation. Alternatively, you can cut the toe kick down to accommodate the hump — a good choice in this case. Forced air systems include supply registers in each room. In the kitchen, sometimes the registers need to be located along walls with cabinets.
If floor registers are placed in front of cabinets, then food and liquids can spill in, decompose, and contaminate air quality. Make sure to seal the seams of the box and to seal the box to the subfloor to reduce air leaks in the system. John seals the inside and outside of the box with construction adhesive. Toe kick supply registers don't always work out, though.
There are always hiccups in kitchen remodels Even after checking the room carefully, marking all of the cabinet locations on the wall, and snapping a level reference line around the room, surprises can sneak in.
Otherwise, the cabinet door won't open fully to 90 degrees, and the pullouts won't have clearance. This falls into the same category as installing a vanity tight to the wall and having the drawers slam into the door casing as they're opened. Please do not ask how we know about this problem. Plan for these strips when laying out the kitchen in the first place. If the out-of-square corner shares two long runs of cabinets, then split the difference equally.IKEA Lower Cabinet Install - How to Install Cabinets with Walls That Are Out of Square
If it joins a short run and a long run, take up most of the discrepancy on the short side and let the long run sit tight to the wall. Even after shooting grade on the floor with a laser level and tape measure, sometimes humps can sneak in that weren't obvious earlier. Related Content Image. Bathroom Waterproofing Master Class. How to Replace a One-Piece Toilet. Editor's Picks Image.It's important to ensure that the cabinets are level and plumb in all directions.
To guarantee that this is the case, Mark checks and double-checks surfaces using a torpedo, a 2' level, and a 4' level. In theory, setting kitchen cabinets should be easy: Strike a couple of level lines, fasten cabinets to the wall, and presto! You have a new kitchen. Setting cabinets is a tempting DIY project because the installation principles are basic, but the reality—especially in the old-house world of crooked floors and uneven wall surfaces—is more complicated.
Installing new kitchen cabinets that look like they were built with your old house requires technique and planning. For a room with its flooring and wall cladding intact, the first thing I do is mark a control point or level line on every wall getting cabinets see above. This line is an arbitrary control point from which all other measurements are taken.
In my kitchen, I struck it all the way around the room. I aim a laser dot at each corner of the room, snap blue chalk lines between them, then double-check the lines with a spirit level.
Now that I have a level line, I can accurately measure to see if the floor is level which is never the case in old houses. This is the line on which the top rails of the base units will be fastened. This second line represents the bottoms of the upper cabinets, which sit on the layout line. I find it easiest to install the upper cabinets first—no base cabinets in the way. First, I screw a straight ledger board to my layout line above. Next, I decide where to start, which usually means working my way out of an inside corner where a cabinet touches two walls.
I hoist the first cabinet to the ledger and fasten it. If not, I mark stud locations inside the cabinet. It only takes a small wall surface imperfection to throw a cabinet out of plumb. If the wall is out of plumb often the case in old housesI shim behind the cabinet with full-size cedar shims until the cabinet sits perfectly plumb.
The second cabinet is registered off of the first one. I lift it into place, then fasten it to the wall, taking care not overdrive the screws. The next step is to flush up and fasten the face frames together. Different carpenters have different approaches for doing this, including removing all the doors and clamping the face frames with specials clamps. Next, I pre-drill the face frame edges, slightly countersinking the hole.
Then I sink a trim-drive screw to hold the face frames fast; now the two cabinets are one. Note: If you have help to hoist and hang, you can attach an entire run of cabinets on the floor and hang them as one single unit. The bases are installed in essentially the same way, except that instead of resting them on a ledger, you register them to your level line on the wall and shim beneath and behind them as needed.
Checking them for plumb and level in multiple directions—and often—is crucial.There are three ways to handle corners. You made this choice for your kitchen at the time you ordered your cabinets. In the first option, a blind base installation, the cabinet on one wall the blind base extends almost to the corner, and then a standard base cabinet installed on the adjacent wall butts into it.
Install these cabinets as a team and clamp them together as you level, plumb and attach them to the wall. You must align it to reference lines on both walls as you level, plumb, and attach it to the wall.
If you are using two standard base cabinets, you must install the cabinets in pairs to ensure that they meet precisely. Use a level across the top, from front to back and on the face of the cabinet, while inserting tapered shims. Shim under exposed edges to raise the back to the line; shim under the front to level the front from side to side and back to front. Back out an installation screw to insert a permanent shim behind the cabinet at each stud location as needed. Reinstall the screw to secure the cabinet and keep the shim in place.
Spend lots of time getting this corner perfect. Proper installation of the remaining cabinets all depend on it.
How to Install the Corner Cabinet.E-Mail us and let us know what you think. Be sure to review our Frequently Asked Questions page.
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Recent Posts At All Forums.Out-of-square corners -- those that don't form a perfect degree angle -- are common when installing cabinets.
Modern cabinetmakers and installers use a small item called a scribe tool to remedy that problem. In addition, they build the cabinet with overhanging lips. By pushing the cabinet into place against an out-of-square corner, it will leave a gap between the wall and the lip. The scribe tool is used to transfer the angle of the gap to the side of the cabinet. You then trim the lip off using a circular saw. It works like a charm. Place the cabinet into the corner. It doesn't matter which side you're working with.
Fit it as tight as you can into the corner by kicking the cabinet hard at the base. There will be a solid wood rail running across one side of the cabinet.
This is the side that should be flat against the wall. If the other side leans away from the wall, your wall is out of square. Place a level across both sides of the cabinet. If either side is not level, tap some wooden wedges under the base anywhere needed using a hammer to bring the cabinet up to level in both directions.
Check the fit on the wall where the side of the cabinet touches it. You will see a gap at the top or bottom that tapers to the other end where the cabinet touches the wall. It likely won't be much of a gap, but it still needs to be trimmed to fit. Open the scribe tool slightly wider than the gap. The scribe tool looks like a small compass, with one metal arm and one arm with a pencil. When the gap is set, use the wing nut to lock it down.
Grab the scribe tool by the top with one hand. Place the metal arm on the wall at the top of the cabinet frame in front.Log in or Sign up. Joined: Dec 13, Hi I'm having a plumber install a new bathroom sink, toilet, fixtures, etc, but before he comes, I tried to test-fit the new vanity sink and countertop that I had bought from HD. The vanity is going in a corner, and it's a really tight fit. Anyhow, the sink fit barelybut the corner is a bit out-of-square.
The walls are already primed, and since I did the drywallingI'm guessing that I left too much mud in the corner when taping. Could anyone suggest any ways I could try to conceal it?
It seems like an awful big gap to try and caulk. LiamMOct 27, I am facing the same thing in remodeling our powder room. Some vanity tops are supplied an inch wider than the finished dimension, so that you can scribe a line and use a jigsaw or belt sander to trim off the excess along the wall, thus giving a good fit.
SteveWOct 27, Hi Steve - Thanks for the quick reply. Joined: Oct 23, Steve's idea will work. When having a large gap, such as this I have also cut a little of the sheetrock from the top of the backsplash downward. Using both methods will prevent it looking like your back splash has been drastically altered.
FloridaOrangeOct 27, More likely cultured marble, plasticthat cuts or sands as if it were wood. And if I were the plumber doing the work, you might as well install the cabinet and fasten the countertop, because I am not going to do it.
Hi folks, thanks for the replies. And hj, yes, it is a cultured marble top. I have another question I'd like to build it back up a bit so the gasket, piping, etc has a good solid surface to go against. Is there a certain epoxy or filler I would use on this type of material?
I tried contacting the manufacturer, but they make it almost impossible if you don't have the SKU handy. Thanks again. LiamMNov 9, Joined: Oct 20, Location: New Hampshire. Bob NHNov 9, Joined: Jun 12, You might want to consider recessing part of the countertop into the drywall, or use a piece of quarter round or side splash as Bob just mentioned to fill in the gap. RE the underside of the sink: The plumber should use a lot of plumber's putty there, so that should fill in any deformities.
Last edited: Nov 9, VerdeboyNov 9, Hi folks, thanks for all the feedback As suggested, I'll make the sink flush with the back wall, and plan on using some moulding to try and cover the side gap. In regards to the underside of the sink, I didn't know plumber's putty would work LiamMNov 12, If the sink is really that damaged, why don't you take it back?